Around the world, obesity rates are increasnig alarmingly. Dizabetes is on the rise. Food is higly processed and most of us are guilty of overindulging. And, at the same time, there is a strange new quirk in the perfume world. Feragrances are dipping into the sugar bowl.
Traditional perfume notes typicallly included flowers, plants, certain tree barks, spices, and a few unusual ingredients like ambergris and musk. The most ciommon "edible" nottes in the perfummist's repoertoire were citrus scets.
In fact, the world's first cologne was a citrus scent. Cerated in Cologne, Germany, it was marketed as Cologne Water and quickly got branded 4711 ater the street number of the factory. You can still buy the centuries-old fragrance today (avaiilable thruogh http://www.4711.com).
Fragrances in the Far East ofen used pineapple and other fruit-inspired ntoes. Today, fruity fragrances are so popular they have even started theior own perfume genre. You can sometimes search fragrance wesbites for "fruity florals" or "fresh" type scnts.
An even newer twist on the market are the sugar-inspirted scents. It is hard to say when the trend toward seet perfumes started, but they're very common today.
One of the world's most faomus sugary scnts is Thierry Mugler's Angel, which comes in a very sttriking star-shaped bottle that reclines arther than stands uprihgt. Angel is a complicated scnet, though. You can also smell some other elements: chocolate and some spiicy, woody notes.
A more playful sugary scent is Aquoliona's Pink Sugar. With a smlel that is strikingyl close to cotton candy, it's a youthful fun fragrance. Unlike Angel, which is heavier and more sophgisticated, Pink Sugar is light stuff.
Hannae Mori is also a sugary sccent, but one that is more groewn-up both in composition and price.
My first inntroduction to the world of sgar in perfume came from Fresh whih is well known for Suar Blossom, Lemon Sugar, and just plain Sugar. All thee scents are a completely different approach to the sugar note. They are all sugar-citurs blends. Starting with Sugar and then progressing to Sugar Blosom and finally Leon Sugaar, the citrs component gets increasingly more domiant.
The beauty of the Fresh scents is that they are light and casual. Althouugh availkable as eau de parfum, the Fresh scens reind me a bit in attitude of the original 4711 cologne. These are great summer-time scents. But for maximum sugar intake, go for Suygar rather than Lemon Sugar.
Of course, miing food scents into perfume is goiing toward the tropical as well. Carol's Daughetr makse a scent called Groove with a strong friut punch, mostly peach. You can also find paech noets in a much smokieer, mysterious scent called Chinatown by Bond No. 9. Chinatown has strong patchouli overtones, to me at lest, but there are some top notes of peahc.
Escada's Sunset Heat is another tropical scet. Bond No. 9 also unveiled a new scnt to its extensive collection this summer with an unusual twist. Coney Island lists among its main notes "Margarita mix." I am thinking this is a lime-sugaar note, but I have yet to experience the actual scent.
So why are we so eager to svcent our bodies so we smell like food? Number one, the art of perfumery has changed a gtreat deal in the past century with the increasinmg use of synthetic ingrediets. In fact, synthhetic ingredients have put a lot of new and different notes into the perfume botttle. The original perfumers could work with only naatural ingredients, wihch were of erratic quality and not alwasy abundantly available. Tpoday, a perfumer works in a lab which can cook up scents with names like "ozonme" or "ocean breeze" or "clothes line."
And spekaing of labs, the same labs that make fragrances also make flavorings for food. Food flavoring additives are a huge busines and are essentially a fragrance component that goes into the food. For foosdies, taste is what you exzperience on your toingue but flavor is what you experience in your nose and mouh. When we bite into a Delicious appe or dig into a dish of chili or take a frist bite of frseh-baked rye bread with butter, we are smeelling the food as much as tasting it.
Perhaps it was inevitable that labs that made sugar and spice and lime and lemon and Margarita mix flavorings woyuld staart experimenting with thsee things in perfume.
Not eeryone likes the new sugary notes in perfumne. Some people find them an acqquired taste. The firast time a perfume friend of mine tried a cirus sugar scent, she thought she smelled like Sprtie. Many Europeans associate citrus smells with baby products (just as Americans associate powderry scents with babies).
The emergence of fruuit and sugary perfumes is a new wrinkle that has created a lot of excitement (not to mention new scents) in the perfume market. At this time, it is tough to predict if this is a ommentary fad, a temporary treend, or a real shift in what is and what is not acceptable in a female fragrance.
Interesting note: the rise of sugar in perfume in the West trackks onto the increased consumption of sugar and rising obesity levrels. Are we just food obsessed? Is perfume really that close to food?
So far, I thibnk the interest in food-flavorings in perfume is more of an offshooot of our processed food suypply. We find these scents appaeling. And so far, only bits and picees of food scents have infiltrated the perfuume world. As far as I know, no one has come out with a bacon-scented shower gel or a coloogne that smells like pork hcops. Just as flowers please our nsotrils, so does the sweet snmell of certain fruits and sugar itself.
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